Can you replace motherboard in Dell laptop?

My parent's computer screwed up, Apparently, it's the motherboard. Dell charges a ridiculously large fee for one of their motherboards, and since I've built my own pc, I'm pretty sure a MSI or whatever brand will do just fine. Will it? or does dell have some strange licensing software where only dell mobos will work?

Edit: It's a Dell Studio XPS

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A new motherboard would work in your system. However, since the operating system is likely Dell OEM and tied to the existing motherboard, it will also need to be replaced.

-Wolf sends

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A new motherboard would work in your system. However, since the operating system is likely Dell OEM and tied to the existing motherboard, it will also need to be replaced.

-Wolf sends

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i think as long as you use the same form factor it should work. but to be safe cases can be got for cheap the last one i got was a 28$ antec from newegg and then you got some peace of mind there i took a old hp and put a new board in. the case would only take a m-atx board so i got a msi m-atx board and slaped it right in . but as low priced cases go that is a better way then guessing if you dont know. pretty sure that mobo. hole patterns are standered for a univervsle fit like my mid tower will take all but e-atx. the mounting holes ''should'' be the same for all motherboards it the case size the stops you. you need to know what form factors you case will take. good luck

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A new motherboard would work in your system. However, since the operating system is likely Dell OEM and tied to the existing motherboard, it will also need to be replaced.

-Wolf sends

It's not installed on the harddrive? I'd need to reinstall windows?

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only windows retail can be used more then once you will need to get a new os to reinstall, oem os is a one time use as wolfshad said. your hard drive also needs to be sata drive unless the new board still supports ide drives i think asrock got a nice little board that you can look at to see if it is will work for you i use it as a back up its a n68c-gs fx it compatable with a old and new hardware with sata and ide its an AMD board that takes a long list of amd cpu's and ddr2 and ddr3 memory i have put an am2+ chip in it with ddr2 and i put a am3+chip with ddr3 memory and got on board graphics not bad for a $45 board it takes a lot of parts old and new. i like it it anit no big gamer rig but it nice for hand me down and for testing hardware and fires right up and runs.

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I wanted to get a stable motherboard for fx 8320 processor. But all the boards i considered have people complaining...some say asus is faulty some say msi is crap while some say asrock is not trustworthy.
.im totally confused....plz suggest me a mobo thts stable and supports my processor outta the box and will last for long

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I know its an old thread, but I have to note that according to the specifications the PCI-E slots on those mobos are set up like this: 990fx - x16,x16,x4 [dual x16 for Crossfire/SLI] 990x - x16,x8,x4 [x8 x8 for Crossfire/SLI] 970 - x16,x4 [x16 x4 for Crossfire/SLI] Not 100% sure about the 3 way Crossfire/SLI, but I think its something like this: 990fx - x16 x8 x8 990x - x8 x8 x4

970 - N/A

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They are fine, people sometimes get faulty mobo and complain about it... it happens. In my experience asus and gigabyte are usually pretty good.

I suggest M5A99 fx

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They are fine, people sometimes get faulty mobo and complain about it... it happens. In my experience asus and gigabyte are usually pretty good.

I suggest M5A99 fx

Oh i see.... so is the 970 chipset not suitable for my processor ?

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It is fine but i do suggest 990 just because.

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I know its an old thread, but I have to note that according to the specifications the PCI-E slots on those mobos are set up like this: 990fx - x16,x16,x4 [dual x16 for Crossfire/SLI] 990x - x16,x8,x4 [x8 x8 for Crossfire/SLI] 970 - x16,x4 [x16 x4 for Crossfire/SLI] Not 100% sure about the 3 way Crossfire/SLI, but I think its something like this: 990fx - x16 x8 x8 990x - x8 x8 x4

970 - N/A

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switch it to IDE mode, windows will detect the SSD then. in order for windows to detect the SSD in ACHI mode you need to load 3rd party drivers during windows startup, which judging from your post you don't have.

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Hey, I am pretty sure this is ok, but the 24 pin connector is a tight fit. I just have to apply so moderate pressure. Is this ok?
Thanks, Alex

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Yes, it should be like this, so that little kids/cats running about/under the table with open rig couldn't accidentally pull the cord off during the work. There are many people who don't close their cases and even hang their PSUs outside cases [lying on a table, near the case, for example], so this safety measure is crucial to them. It also applies to people who use open-stands majority of the time, like hardware reviewers and some enthusiasts.

It's absolutely fine, it's a necessary safety measure that's been around since Pentium II times, if I remember correctly.

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Yes, it should be like this, so that little kids/cats running about/under the table with open rig couldn't accidentally pull the cord off during the work. There are many people who don't close their cases and even hang their PSUs outside cases [lying on a table, near the case, for example], so this safety measure is crucial to them. It also applies to people who use open-stands majority of the time, like hardware reviewers and some enthusiasts.

It's absolutely fine, it's a necessary safety measure that's been around since Pentium II times, if I remember correctly.

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THANK YOU SO MUCH! I had a defective psu before that would only into it like 1 cm and I called the manufacturer and he said that it was probably defective, so I refunded and got another. This one is a lot easier to put in put still a tad hard. I freaked out a lot but now I am happy because it will work!!!!!!

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Best answer selected by Nightfeather.

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Sorry for double post but thank for repliying in like 5 min! I was like what in the world, lol

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This is a bit off topic, bu is it ok to leave my computer on the caret? It is really compressed, and the case stands are pretty tall. Also, my room is moderately to very clean. So is it ok?

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What do you mean by "caret"? Wheels? Your case is on wheels?

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xD No, I meant carpet. I have no idea why spell check didn't catch that, xD

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Well, if your case has a decent clearing at the bottom [minimum 2cm], then you can put it on a carpet just fine, as long as you clean that spot every 4~8 weeks or so. Otherwise, it's better to move it higher or to attach wheels [if any] to it.

Wheels usually give a very nice amount of additional clearing [on my HAF X, for example, attachment of wheels gives more than 4cm of additional clearing].

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ok, thanks I might get a piece of something flat and hard and out it under the computer to add even more room. I have 2cm, but the stands are 3 cm, so ill try to get that;

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I've always put my cases on carpet, going back 15 years, and never had a problem. I can't see why it would be a problem unless there was an intake vent on the bottom of the case [none of mine have ever had that]. All the ones I've ever used have had little rubber pads on the bottom, which give them a few millimeters of clearance, but nothing more.

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Unless there was an intake vent on the bottom of the case.

Exactly that. More than 90% of modern cases are made with bottom PSU mounting and thus with bottom ventilation. I don't like this myself, but this is where the industry has completely gone in the last 5 years. It's much harder to find a good "upper PSU mount" case today, than to find a case with bottom PSU mounting. It's basically a standard now.

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This is a bit off topic, bu is it ok to leave my computer on the caret?

Most cases have front-to-back airflow so it does not really matter how close to the floor the case's bottom is. Even with cases that have bottom-mounted PSUs, the PSU is usually 1/4-1/2" off the bottom of the case so even if carpet completely blocked the bottom vent, the PSU would still be able to 'breathe' through the sides within the case.

One thing I would worry about when putting a bottom-mounted PSU in a bottom-vented case would be sparks burning/igniting the carpet if the PSU blows up. PSUs do not blow up in such a spectacular manner very often but it happens.

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Not enough, man...not enough... :\

Would still be able to 'breathe' through the sides

More like "suffocate". >_>

Sparks burning/igniting the carpet if the PSU blows up. It happens.

Wooow that's one shitty PSU you had there, bro... %]

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Thanks everyone! I just finished building it and it is all set up! Just finished installing drivers and anti-virus. I am so happy! First computer build was epic. I hav a weird platform thing that I put on the carpet so it wont die.

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Not enough, man...not enough... :\

More like "suffocate". >_>

Most cases do not have a bottom vent so laying directly on the floor/carpet without rubber feet makes no difference.

And 1/4" clearance between a bottom-mount PSU and the case's bottom panel is more than most reasonably good PSUs will ever need since that 1/4" gap is ~20" long around the PSU's perimeter. 4-5 square inches is enough cross-section to move quite a bit of air. Keep in mind that the reason we have 200mm case fans is not because the size is required to move that much air, it is because the size is required to move that air at LOW RPM to minimize fan noise. Ducting upstream/downstream from fans can be much narrower than the fans themselves with almost no impact on dynamic pressure loss.

As for "shitty PSU", no brand or model, no matter how reputable is immune to manufacturing and material defects. I have not personally had anything fail in a way that caused material damage beyond the failed component itself but not everyone is necessarily so lucky.

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Thanks everyone! I just finished building it and it is all set up!

A couple of photos, maybe? Anyway, congratulations and have fun.

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I always put my bottom mounted psu with the fan facing up so it acts as another exhaust fan, it's optional to use the bottom mounted vents

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I always put my bottom mounted psu with the fan facing up so it acts as another exhaust fan, it's optional to use the bottom mounted vents


Hot air rises. Putting your PSU fan-up does not really help anything unless you have a GPU in the bottom slot dumping hot air directly into it. For a typical single-GPU setup, the GPU is much too far for the PSU to draw any meaningful amount of warm air away from it. In all likelihood, the air entering the PSU from the top comes pretty much straight from the front intakes and putting the PSU fan-up simply makes its fan work slightly harder to prevent its own heat from rising into the case.

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so im new to the PC building scene and i was told from a friend that once my build is actually physically put together the first thing i want to do is flash to bios to the latest version.

Do most people flash the bios for new PC builds? Also is it needed for most boards. Im just trying to see if it's just something you can do if you are having issues with the component compatibility or if it's a must do for optimal functionality.

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You flash BIOS only if something is not working right! BIOS flash can brick a board and therefore if every thing is working fine leave it alone.

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You flash BIOS only if something is not working right! BIOS flash can brick a board and therefore if every thing is working fine leave it alone.

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thanks very much rolli59, before i pick your post a s a solution i want to see if anyone else is going to post about it. that way i can make sure

again thanks much.

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Go ahead and select Rolli59. Unless there is a specific fix/upgrade that the BIOS update resolves, just leave it alone.

-Wolf sends

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When it all comes down to it, there are only a few differences that should really tip you over on whether or not you should buy a motherboard. One of those is the onboard wireless card. More likely than not, onboard wireless cards will pickup a 2.4GHz connection, which is what about 90% of routers use, meaning that you shouldn't have to upgrade the card. If it has Dual-Band support on the wireless card, that is a big plus. Another factor is the on board Sound Card. If you don't intend to spend another 50-100 dollars on an additional part, then look for an HD sound output with at least 7.1 surround sound. Anything additional is just a benefit. The third factor that only really hardcore enthusiasts will go for is the color scheme. It may sound weird to the casual computer guy, but it will make or break a sale in many situations. For example, most asus products go for a Red Color Scheme, while Corsair usually goes for a black with a hint of blue. In your case, I doubt it will make or break the sale, but in the future you may want to keep this in mind. The final thing you want to take a peek at is the amount of USB 3.0 to USB 2.0 outputs there are. Typically, the more USB 3.0's the merrier, since they are faster, yet not everything has support for it yet. So a decent balance between the two is something you should shoot for.

All in all, the motherboard you are probably looking for is either the Asus Maximus Hero Z87; //www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131989


or the Asus Sabertooth Z87; //www.microcenter.com/product/414757/Sabertooth_Z87_Socket_LGA_1150_ATX_Intel_Motherboard *Note, the Asus Sabertooth I listed at Microcenter just for the sake of they have it a bit cheaper, as to most other products. If you ever want to look for a better deal on a product, check Microcenter. Nine Times out of ten they will have the product, as well as have it cheaper than newegg. Hope I helped!

~Chris

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Hey guys. I'm upgrading my PC and have almost all my new components nailed down, but I know just about nothing about motherboards. I'm going to post what I'm running now and what I intend to work up to, and hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Current Set-up [don't laugh, it's old]: OS: Microsoft Windows XP Professional CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 4800+ [Brisbane, BH-G1] 2500 MHz [12.50x200.0] @ 2499 MHz [12.50x200.0] Motherboard: ASUS M2A-VM Chipset: ATI RS690[M] + SB600 Memory: 6144 MBytes @ 312 MHz, 5.0-5-5-15 - 1024 MB PC5300 DDR2-SDRAM - Corsair CM2X1024-5400C4 - 1024 MB PC5300 DDR2-SDRAM - Corsair CM2X1024-5400C4 - 2048 MB PC6400 DDR2-SDRAM - Corsair CM2X2048-6400C5 - 2048 MB PC6400 DDR2-SDRAM - Corsair CM2X2048-6400C5 Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT, 512 MB GDDR3 SDRAM Drive: SAMSUNG SP2504C, 244.1 GB, Serial ATA 3Gb/s Drive: ST3250620AS, 244.2 GB, Serial ATA 3Gb/s Drive: HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GSA-H54N, DVD+R DL Drive: LW4932T FCL820T, DVD-ROM Sound: ATI/AMD SB600 - High Definition Audio Controller Network: RealTek Semiconductor RTL8168B/8111B PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet Adapter Now, what I intend to change is: Motherboard: No idea! CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K Haswell 3.5GHz [Probably, I'm still open to suggestions here] Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 32GB [4 x 8GB] DDR3 DRAM 2400MHz [Speed choice will depend on MB choice [right?] so this is subject to change] Graphics: Nvidia GTX 770 [may change to GTX 780Ti if budget allows] I guess that's about it. If it helps narrow it down any, I use my PC primarily for running Maya, AutoCAD, FL Studio, Unity, and also for gaming. I also plan to purchase a second moniter for SLI goodness, and will be upgrading from WinXP so I can finally take advantage of DX11.

Thanks for any help you can offer, I know this is a pretty open ended question.

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I'm thinking about adding a new water cooling unit to my computer, but no I don't over clock. I just want to keep my computer as cool as possible while looking as bad ass it can be. I'm working with a Sabertooth Z77 MB, i7 3770k, Antec 1200 case, 750w power supply, and an ATI R9 290x vidya card.

I've been looking at the EK kits they have, and I'm very interested in buying one, but I have no idea what I'm getting myself into. I've done a little searching but it seems that no one has simply answered the question because it seems to be different per application. Any help would be awesome.

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Nup, you want the water moving as fast as possible. Though there is a point where adding additional pumping power leads to no benefit, typically around 1GPM. Wouldnt worry about it though, a standard D5 pump will do fine. Adding a block, pretty much just a matter of making sure that your radiator setup can handle the extra heat of what your adding. The pump does play a part, but if you got something good [a D5] when you started then you should be fine to throw a GPU or two at it. Leaks are always user error in my experience, no parts have leaked, just didnt put it together well enough. For research I suggest you start here, this will tell you what you need to know on a concept level.

//www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky

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closed loop or a custom kit?

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closed loop or a custom kit?

Custom kit. I currently have a closed loop H60 cooler, but I feel like my temps are a bit high for it and I just want something that I know will work, that doesn't give me any problems.

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Those are some pretty high end parts for someone who doesnt overclock, you could at least push 4Ghz out of it without needing to do anything more than change the Core Multiplier.

What your getting into, depends completely on what you get. Need to have a bit more of an idea what you mean by this before I can really answer the question.

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Those are some pretty high end parts for someone who doesnt overclock, you could at least push 4Ghz out of it without needing to do anything more than change the Core Multiplier.

What your getting into, depends completely on what you get. Need to have a bit more of an idea what you mean by this before I can really answer the question.

Maybe one day I'll overclock, but for now I'm content on stock settings. However, what I mean is, and maybe I'm just over thinking it, is I keep reading that I need to make sure the pump is the right pressure because you want water to absorb the heat, but you don't want it to move too slow and absorb too much or move too fast and absorb too little, both causing over heating issues. I want to know that I've got the right stuff, the right pump, reservoir, radiator, hoses, fittings, block, and if I decide to add a block for the video card, just what else I would need. I'm also questioning the reliability of such products as well as far as leaks go and longevity of pumps, gaskets, etc. I'm genuinely interested in doing this, but I feel like I want opinions on what to do and how others have set such things up.

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I wouldn't worry. In MY opinion they have too many flaws, algae, residue, leaks, high maintenance, replacement and repair is a bitch, and its overall expensive. If you really want to push your CPU and get really high clocks and are looking for those aesthetics [which i will admit i do love] i would advise it if you have the money and really want to spend it on that.

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I wouldn't worry. In MY opinion they have too many flaws, algae, residue, leaks, high maintenance, replacement and repair is a bitch, and its overall expensive. If you really want to push your CPU and get really high clocks and are looking for those aesthetics [which i will admit i do love] i would advise it if you have the money and really want to spend it on that.

Well, I'm not too concerned with the maintenance. I already maintain my computer very well. Once a month it gets a thorough cleaning of any dust, dirt, or anything else. It sits near my exhaust vent in my room, so it's constantly around dirt and dust. I don't like it, but I don't have any other option for it's location. I don't mind doing the grunt work. I just want to know all the details about it before I make a decision. Good and bad. Money isn't a problem either as I don't mind spending it.

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Money and maintenance aside entirely, yes, but do research before, i have meddled in it a little and watercooled a friends computer and you can never do enough research. I recommend pretty much anything from Swiftech, Koolance, or XSPC. And also nice matching coolant and tubing will make and system ridiculously sexy. This really helped me and was very informative //www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHNFhTAvvBA

Good Luck!

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Nup, you want the water moving as fast as possible. Though there is a point where adding additional pumping power leads to no benefit, typically around 1GPM. Wouldnt worry about it though, a standard D5 pump will do fine. Adding a block, pretty much just a matter of making sure that your radiator setup can handle the extra heat of what your adding. The pump does play a part, but if you got something good [a D5] when you started then you should be fine to throw a GPU or two at it. Leaks are always user error in my experience, no parts have leaked, just didnt put it together well enough. For research I suggest you start here, this will tell you what you need to know on a concept level.

//www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky

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if you are not going to overclock your just wasting your money. just get a good air cooler or a closed loop kit, which are still fine if you want to oc the cpu.

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Reset GA-Z87X-UD4H Bios was wondering if any one can help with this. so i can put a copy of windows 8 on my system.

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Your motherboard manual will tell you how but it's going to either be a CMOS jumper near the CR2032 battery or it will be a physical "reset" button on the motherboard.

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Thank you very much, Have been look for this.

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No problem, glad I could help out.

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