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What instantly stood out when Tissot launched the Powematic 80 was its 80-hour power reserve. For under $1000 you get a dressy watch available in a range of dial colours, a sapphire anti-reflective dial and a mechanical 80-hour power reserve movement.
The Ballade Powermatic 80 COSC can be seen as the spiritual successor to the Powermatic 80. It features everything that made the original a great value mechanical watch, whilst adding even more watchmaking tech. It is not only COSC certified, but it also houses a patented silicon balance spring and a patented regulator-assembly. The Ballade is perhaps one of the best examples of the benefits economies of scale can bring to brands under the Swatch Group umbrella. Consumers are the real winners, getting access technology typically found on much more expensive watches.
Clous de Paris Decorated Case
The Ballade features a 316L stainless steel case with see-through case back and a sapphire anti-reflective coated dial. Giving you a crystal clear view of the Clous de Paris hobnail patterned dial. The same pattern is also found on the bezel and compared to the relatively thin bezel found on the Powermatic 80, that of the Ballade is considerably thicker. The textured pattern found on the dial does a great job of offering some textural contrast against both the satin finished surface found on the case and on the dial. Its water-resistant to up to pressure of 5 bar [50 m / 165 ft], but then again, being more of a dressy watch you wouldn’t expect much higher. There’s enough variation across all 7 of the Ballade Powermatic 80 COSC watches to please many differing tastes.
On the Dial
The Ballade features Arabic numeral hour markers at the 12 and 6 o’clock, a date window at the 3 and “Powermatic 80 Chronometer” printed over 2 lines above the 6. Aside from the 6 and 12, the remaining baton hour indexes and their matching polished dauphine-type of hands are a more dainty take on the slightly thicker Heritage Visodate hands and hour markers.
Running around the edge of the dial is a slim seconds track. Stepping inwards, between the seconds track and the inner hobnail dial lies a smooth inner ring. There’s more going on than a casual glance at the watch would suggest. It features a busier dial compared to the original Powermatic, with a distinctive look, and sits well within Tissot’s line of more dressier classical looking watches.
Magnetized World
In an increasingly magnetised world, it’s good to see Tissot include a silicon hairspring. First used by Ulysse Nardin in its Freak watches back in 2001, up until now, the use of silicon has typically been restricted to watches costing significantly more than the Ballade. It is fitting though, considering Tissot has been at the forefront of combating the effects of magnetism on watches since the 30’s. In fact, the Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde is actually inspired by Tissot’s early antimagnetic watches first launched in 1943 appropriately called the Antimagnétique.
Tissot’s new COSC-certified automatic Powermatic 80.111 caliber is a major step toward improving the traditional approach to ladies’ mechanical watchmaking. The new movement is used in the Tissot Ballade, a 32mm ladies’ classic watch that is priced at under $1,000, proof once and for all that buying a high-luxury or over-decorated timepiece is not the only option for women who want a top-quality mechanical ladies’ wristwatch.
Tissot Ballade with clous de Paris bezel and dial.
There are a couple of problems inherent in making mechanical movements for ladies’ watches. Because of size restrictions, very few have a seconds hand and are therefore not COSC certified. It is also hard to get a long power reserve because of restrictions on barrel size and the lack of space for a second barrel. Size does matter for the ladies’ market because, despite the U.S. preference for larger sizes, the Asian market has always been a big consideration in designing ladies’ collections, and in that market, smaller sizes are the norm. Tissot’s new family of Powermatic 80 movements changes all that somewhat.
The Powermatic 80.111 is something of a milestone because it is a mechanical movement created for a ladies’ watch and because it is an exceptional movement, with high precision – COSC certified – and an 80-hour power reserve, compared to the standard 42. This is achieved with a proprietary mechanical system that reduces the consumption of energy. Accuracy and power reserve are enhanced by an adjustable balance wheel – which is regulated for greater precision – and a longer mainspring. The longer mainspring was made possible by making it thinner and by reducing the diameter of the barrel-arbor’s core. Thus, the longer mainspring – and its accompanying longer power reserve – coils into a barrel that did not have to be increased to take up more space.
The Powermatic 80 is the product of a collaboration between Tissot and ETA, Tissot’s sister company within the Swatch Group. Originally designated the ETA 2824, but with a longer power reserve, the new automatic movement, called the ETA C07.111 or the Powermatic 80.111 was given a lower frequency – 3Hz [21,600 vph] instead of 4Hz [28,800], and a high-performance silicon balance spring. Reducing speed [and the energy requirement] and strengthening the escapement reduces friction and boosts performance. The result is a caliber that meets COSC standards, combined with that impressive 80-hour power reserve. The movement is 25.6mm in diameter, with 146 components including 25 jewels. In its case, the Tissot Ballade is only 32mm wide and 9.44mm thick. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, and a date indication at 3 o’clock.
There are several versions of the Powermatic 80 caliber, depending on function, which are used in both men’s and ladies’ watches for both Tissot and in some really nice models for sister brand Mido. The Powermatic 80.601 is an “open heart” version, with a window at 12 o’clock through which to view the escapement. It is used in the Dressport ladies’ collection and the men’s Tradition models. The Powermatic 80.141 is a day/date model, with the date at 6 o’clock and the day at 3 o’clock. Only the Powermatic 80.111 has a silicon balance spring, but all are derived from the ETA 2824 base.
The case and bracelet of the Ballade is made of stainless steel, with two-tone, rose or yellow gold-plated options. There are also strap options in various colors. The bezel and inner dial are finished in a clous de Paris pattern. There are two Arabic numerals, at 12 and 6, and the rest are applied indexes. While we still don’t have exact pricing, the ladies’ Tissot Ballade will be priced starting at under $1,000, which makes the Tissot Ballade one of the best price/value ratios on the market, and that has always been at the core of Tissot’s product range. tissotwatches.com
Is Tissot Powermatic 80 COSC certified?
The movement inside this Powermatic 80 Chronometer is a COSC-certified ETA C07. 111, which is essentially an ETA 2824 with a beefed up 80-hour power reserve, lower friction materials, and a balance beating at 3Hz instead of 4Hz.
How precise is Powermatic 80?
The test results for the caliber There are some test results on the accuracy of watches with the Powermatic 80 movement. Tissot, as one of the main users of the movement, states that the accuracy is usually in the range of a deviation of -15 to +15 seconds per day.
What does Tissot COSC stand for?
COSC stands for "Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres," which ultimately translates to the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. Essentially, the independent organisation is responsible for testing and certifying the accuracy of high-precision watch movements.
How long does a Powermatic 80 movement last?
Tissot's Powermatic 80 is one of the most reliable movements in the world. With an 80-hour power reserve, Powermatic 80 watches will accurately tell the time for 3 days, even without being worn.